This post is a 7-day itinerary using the Hokuriku Arch Pass offered by JR West lines. We took our trip in mid-December 2023 and explored cities and towns along this route. We’ve explored along this route once and were eager to visit it again, but now focused on visiting more traditional towns.

Here are our top recommendations for places to see, where we stayed and foods we ate!

Hokuriku Arch JR Pass 7-day Itinerary

Introduction

The Hokuriku Arch JR Pass is a special train pass designed for foreign visitors to Japan who want to explore the Hokuriku region, an area west of Tokyo known for its traditional towns, picturesque mountains, and unique cultural experiences.

This pass includes major stops such as Kyoto and Osaka and along the way you can explore less traveled destinations and mountain towns. You can buy the pass here.

The main perk for this pass is unlimited travel for 7 consecutive days on JR trains, including the Hokuriku Shinkansen (Tokyo-Kanazawa route) and the Hikari/Thunderbird Shinkansen (Kanazawa-Osaka route) only. The Shinkansen is a bullet train and one of the easiest and most relaxing ways to travel around Japan.

At the time of this post, the pass costs 24,500 yen ($172) when purchased outside Japan and 25,500 yen ($179) when purchased via online reservation within Japan. It was really easy to buy the pass: just sign up for an account, purchase the pass with a credit or debit card, and you can start reserving your seat on the trains.

Benefits of Using the Hokuriku Arch JR Pass

• Cost-effective: Can be cheaper than buying individual tickets, especially if you plan to travel extensively within the region.
• Convenience: Eliminates the need to purchase tickets at each station.
• Flexibility: Allows you to hop on and off trains as you please within the covered area.

Making Reservations and Picking Up Your Pass

This one is always confusing! This is the 4th time we use a JR Pass like this and it always confuses us where to go to pick it up! 

Unfortunately it’s not a mobile pass so you need to go to the JR East Travel Center at major train stations to pick it up (Shinjuku, Tokyo, Shinagawa, etc.). While you’re there, they can help you make seat reservations. Don’t forget to bring your passport, the travel agents need to see the temporary visitor sticker on your passport otherwise you aren’t eligible to use the pass.

Advantages of the Hokuriku Arch Pass

The Hokuriku Arch JR Pass is ideal for travelers who want to spend time exploring different towns along the Kanto and Kansai area and want to visit multiple destinations. It is way cheaper than buying a one way pass from destination to destination, unless you’re planning on staying for a while.

Traveling on a Shinkansen train is an experience like no other. The train is super fast and smooth, you can bring food, drinks and alcohol on board, and also work, like I was doing. 

The downside of the pass is that it might feel rushed trying to get in as many cities and towns as possible. Luckily, we created this itinerary so that you visit the major spots along the route.

Day One: Tokyo to Takayama

Train: Kagayaki 503 from Tokyo Station to Toyama Station; 07:20 AM – 09:28 AM
Transfer: JR Hida line from Toyama Station to Takayama Station; 09:54 AM – 11:25 AM
Hotel: Wat Hotel & Spa; $45/night

Takayama is a mountain town in the Hida Region of Japan. It’s a charming house with well preserved Edo period architecture, natural forest scenery and their onsens (natural hot springs).

Sanmachi Suji is Takayama’s historical district. It’s a collection of streets lined with traditional wooden houses that are shops and restaurants. Buy some authentic Japanese souvenirs and local crafts from these shops. Stop by a sake brewery and have sake tasting, most of the rice for the sake are farmed in the Hida region.

Visit Takayama Festival Floats Exhibition Hall where they have all the floats used in their festivals. They are all very intricate, ornate and beautiful. Try Hida beef and soba noodles for lunch and go for Hida ramen for dinner at Dekonaru Yokocho, an alleyway with a collection of small restaurants and izakayas.

Depending on your time and energy level, visit the Hida Folk Village, an open air museum with Edo period farmhouses and workshops. It’s a 9 minute bus ride from Takayama Bus Terminal. Be sure to visit Takayama Jinya, a museum on the way to Sanmachi Suji, to learn about samurai culture.

Finally, relax at night after a long day of exploring in one of the four private onsens that Wat Hotel & Resort offers to their guests. These are open air onsen but the water is so hot that you won’t feel cold at all. It’s the perfect way to end the day.

Day Two: Shirakawa-go Day Trip (Takayama – Shirakawa-go – Kanazawa)

Bus AM: Takayama Bus Terminal to Shirakawa-go Bus Terminal (1 hour)
Bus PM: Shirakawa-go Bus Terminal to Kanazawa Bus Terminal (1 hour)
Hotel: Hotel Wing International; $62/night (stay 2 nights)

Take the bus from Takayama Bus Terminal to Shirakawago Bus Terminal in the morning for a day trip strolling around a beautiful gassho style farmhouse village. The bus ride is only 1 hour and the ride is picturesque: through pined mountains. We bought our tickets from the bus terminal but you can also buy them online here.

Leave your bags at the coin lockers or bag storage and head out to Ogimachi village. Visit one of the open houses to peek inside and learn about traditional life: Hida House or Kanda House. Climb up to Ogimachi observatory for panoramic views and pictures of the village and its surrounding mountains.

These farmhouses are beautiful and distinct. Some of the houses were converted into inns, shops, restaurants and cafes so you can admire their beauty. We recommend a day trip because you can see the village in a few hours and there are limited places to stay the night. 

For food, try Kyoshu Traditional Coffee Shop. It’s a cafe with a beautiful interior and large windows to the breathtaking countryside. All the seats face outside so there isn’t a “bad seat”. Their coffee and cakes are delicious 🙂

Take the late afternoon bus (around 5 PM) to Kanazawa. This is a great time to leave the area since many of the shops and restaurants close at 4 PM.

I recommend staying in Kanazawa for 2 nights since you lost a day exploring Shirakawa-go. Go for dinner at Kanazawa Station or a nearby shopping mall and rest for the night.

Day Three: Kanazawa

Wake up bright and early to start your day in this beautiful city with a traditional geisha district. Start your day with some good bread and coffee at DonQ Boulangerie, a French Style bakery chain from Kobe. Try their salt bread (shio pan) and savory breads, these are my go-to. 

Take the city bus from Kanazawa Station and head to the charming Higashi Chaya district, a historic geisha district. It’s one of the largest and most well-preserved chaya districts in the country and offers a glimpse into the traditional world of Japanese entertainment and culture.

It’s characterized by low rise wood buildings, most of them in red. These buildings were turned into shops and restaurants. Wander inside the shops and buy yourself a souvenir. I got a gold foil face mask and tried the gold leaf ice cream (a gimmick in my opinion).

Stop by for some beers at Oriental Brewing in Kanazawa, the bartenders are really nice and friendly. We didn’t try their lobster pizza but it looked delectable. Then head over to Omicho Market for fresh seafood for lunch or snacks.

Afterwards walk over to Naga-machi District, a village with former samurai houses. This time around we noticed far less tourists than our previous visit to both this area and the Higashi Chaya district.

To end your day, explore the beautiful Kenroku-en Garden, considered one of the top three gardens in Japan. Stroll through its diverse landscape, and depending on the time of year, the different blooms or winter illuminations. Lastly, visit a museum if you have time. We visited the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, a beautiful museum designed by Japan’s top architects SANAA and displaying great art.

Dinner at Kanazawa

For dinner, eat at a kaitensushi (conveyor belt sushi) around Kanazawa Station. I found the sushi fresh and melt-in-your-mouth kind of feel. Some options include:

• Morimori Sushi: a popular chain as there is one at the Kanazawa Forus Mall on the 6F and there is a long wait list. Alternatively, you can visit the one at Omicho Market
• Maimon Sushi Kanazawa Station: is another popular chain and one of my favorites (they have them in Tokyo too!) This one is inside Kanazawa Station and also very popular
• KIRARI: This is a restaurant by the Bus Terminal at the station and it’s the one we settled for. It had less wait time. The sushi was fresh and delicious and you ordered from a tablet. Our bill came out to $80 for 2 adults. The sushi selection was also large and lots of local options.

Day Four: Kanazawa to Kyoto

Train: Thunderbird 14 from Kanazawa Station to Kyoto Station; 09:02 AM – 11:10 AM
Hotel: APA Hotel; $98/night. I do not recommend staying here for longer stays as the room are small, but good and affordable for one night!

Grab breakfast at DonQ Boulangerie one last time, yes grab those salt butter breads, and take the Thunderbird into Kyoto Station!

This station is overwhelmingly huge: you’ll be walking among a sea of people everywhere you turn, and you get lost easily. We decided to stay near the station because it was only 1 night and expediency was paramount. We chose the APA hotel in the station. 

If you stay more than 1 night, choose to stay at a restored Machiya, traditional wooden houses, on Airbnb, or a hotel near the touristy areas. 

For a one-night in Kyoto we recommend the following sites:

• Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine: an iconic hike through red torii gates for breathtaking views of the city when you reach the top. Then head to,
• Kiyomizu-dera Temple: a historic wooden temple perched on a hillside. After your visit to the temple and the pagoda, walk down the charming Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka streets. They’re lined with traditional shops and teahouses. Enjoy a matcha latte, charcoal ice cream, or browse for souvenirs.
• Lunch or dinner at Gion district: it’s a very lively district to sample Kyoto cuisine. Visit Nishiki Market, a vibrant covered market with lots of shops and restaurants. At night, have a drink or two at Pontocho, a narrow alleyway filled with restaurants and bars. It’s truly lively at night.

For food, we had ramen at this hole in a wall ramen restaurant called Hakata-Nagahama Ramen Miyoshi. There are only a few seats at the counter and patrons usually come in, order from a machine, eat and leave. One of the best Hakata style ramen places I’ve had. We finished with drinks at Bar Cask (in Pontocho).

More Sites to Visit in Kyoto

More sites to visit if you have more nights at Kyoto:

• Arashiyama Bamboo Grove: take a peaceful walk through the bamboo stalks and enjoy the natural beauty. This one is further from Kyoto but worth a visit if you have time. There’s a lot of tourists so it gets packed.
• Kingaku-ji Temple (Golden Pavilion): is also some ways out. It’s a beautiful temple with a gold leaf facade and beautiful surrounding gardens. We went on previous years and it’s something to marvel at.

Day Five: Kyoto to Osaka (Nara Day Trip)

Train: Tokaido-Sanyo line (28 mins ride) – lots of trains between these two cities
Hotel: Hearton Hotel near Osaka Station; $72/night x 2 nights

Arrive at Osaka in the morning, drop off your bags at the hotel and head back to Osaka Station to take the Osaka Loop Line to Nara, for a day trip. The Osaka Loop Line, and other JR lines, is covered by the Hokuriku Arch JR Pass. Nara is an easy day trip from Osaka for a dose of nature and historical temples. It was our first time in Nara and a place we didn’t want to miss.

We got there on Sunday morning, and were lucky enough that it was during Kasuga Wakamiya Onmatsuri festival, a Shinto festival held annually in Nara around mid-December. It is one of the oldest and largest in Japan. It was packed with locals and tourists as they saw the procession featuring people dressed in traditional costumes from different eras of Japanese history.

Then head to Nara Park to visit the deer that surround the park. You can buy them crackers to eat and make sure to bow to them: they will bow back. There’s gardens and temples to explore, as well as the city.

Finally, head back to Osaka Station to explore the station and surrounding areas. There is a beautiful Tsutaya Bookstore on the 9th floor of the Lucua 1100 building that’s worth a visit. Then head to the Support Plaza upstairs, grab a drink at the convenience store, and sit outside the roof deck (on the 11th floor) to marvel at the Osaka skyline.

Day Six: Osaka

This is a full day of exploring Osaka!

In the morning, visit Osaka Castle, a symbol of the city, and wander through its beautiful gardens. We were captivated by the green roof of the castle. Buy a ticket to the castle and learn about Osaka’s history at the museum within the castle.

Head over to Shin Sekai, a retro neighborhood, and explore the streets lined with restaurants and shops. The major attractions are the Shin Sekai market and Tsutenkaku, an observation tower. Have lunch at one of the many restaurants in the area. Finally, explore Tennoji park right next door and walk around the gardens.

In the late afternoon, head over to Shinsaibashi, a trendy shopping district, for fashion finds. Walk through Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping street, a large shopping arcade with tons of restaurants and souvenirs shops. Have dinner in Dotonbori, famous for its street food and lively atmosphere. 

Some must try foods are: 

• Takoyaki – classic Osaka snack, are ball-shaped dumplings with a small piece of octopus 
• Okonomiyaki (many restaurants have rooms where you can cook the pancake yourself), it contains egg, cabbage, a variety of meats to choose from, and grated yam. It’s topped with a delicious brown sauce, nori seaweed and mayo.
• Kushikatsu – breaded skewers of meat and vegetables that are breaded and deep fried. They go really well with beer
• Yakiniku – barbecued meat – so good!!

Dotonbori neighborhood runs along a river so you can experience watching people on cruises and the reflection of the vibrant none-lit district. 

End your night with a view of the city at Umeda Sky (skyscraper with an observation deck similar to Shibuya Sky in Tokyo) or again at the rooftop deck of Lucua 1100 at Osaka Station while sipping on a canned highball or beer from the nearby convenience store. 

Alternative Osaka Things To Do

• Go to Universal Studios Japan or Osaka Aquarium
• Attend a Namba Grand Kagetsu comedy show or 
• Watch a Kabuki performance at the National Bunraku Theater
• Visit the large Tsutaya at Hirakata T-Site and take pictures with the very instagrammable double height bookshelf. It’s a 30 minute train ride from Osaka Station and frankly, nothing else to do at Hirakata

Day Seven: Osaka to Tokyo (Travel Day)

Your Hokuriku Arch Adventure came to an end!

Book a train back in the early afternoon, around 1:00 PM, to enjoy Osaka one last morning. We took the Thunderbird 19 to Kanazawa Station (around 2.5 hours trip) and then transferred to the Kagayaki Train from Kanazawa Station to Tokyo station (another 2.5 hours trip). We got to Tokyo Station just in time for dinner, around 7:20 PM. 

Unbeknownst to us, we couldn’t book a direct Shinkansen from Osaka Station to Tokyo Station because that route isn’t covered by the Hokuriku Arch JR Pass. Instead, we had to go back to Tokyo the exact same way we came (through Kanazawa). Just a tidbit of knowledge before you book this trip.

Alternative Places to Explore

If you want to skip any of the mountain towns of Takayama, Shirakawa-go, or Kanazawa, I’d recommend the following:

Nagano

Nagano is a major stop along the Hokuriku Arch route and one we didn’t have a chance to stop by. It is known for its stunning mountain landscapes and outdoor activities such as hiking, skiing and snowboarding.

Another highlight for Nagano is their Jigokudani Monkey Park to see adorable snow monkeys soaking in hot springs. They have lots of hotels with onsens and another popular attraction is the Ninja experiences at the Ninja House or Togakushi Ninpo Museum.

Kobe

Kobe is an amazing port town, only 20 minutes by Shinkansen from Osaka Station. It is known for their Kobe beef, originating from the region, and has one of the largest concentration of buildings designed by Tadao Ando. 

I recommend visiting:

• Chinatown – it’s a small Chinatown but packed with good restaurants
• Meriken Park – urban waterfront park with lots of cool structures, a maritime museum and a shopping mall nearby
• Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens –  a beautiful garden with seasonal themes. You need to take a Ropeway (cable car) up the mountain. The ascent lasts about 10 minutes and you’ll get breathtaking views of the city, port and sea below as well as the trees as you go up. Go all the way to the top and wind your way down through the garden. Explore all the shops and beautiful cafes with the most amazing views. If you go during winter, there is a small Christmas market at the top.
• Stay at Arima Onsen, an onsen town about 20 minutes train ride from Kobe Station. There are plenty of restaurants and onsen hotels to choose from. The village is quiet and peaceful and truly relaxing. We stayed at Arima Onsen Taketoritei Maruyama and it was the most amazing experience. Each room has tatami mats and hotel staff make your futon bed every night. They also have 8 private baths that you can choose from (4 indoors and 4 outdoors). We recommend the outdoor baths for amazing views.

Himeji

Alternatively, you can dedicate a day trip to visit Himeji Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is intricately designed and very beautiful, with many roofs. Purchase a ticket to explore inside the large castle, you can even rent samurai suits or kimonos for photoshoots.

It’s also surrounded by a beautiful, traditional Japanese garden that will take your breath away. Keep in mind, Himeji is not part of the Hokuriku Arch JR Pass and you will pay a separate train fee.

Conclusion

There you have it, this post was all about the Hokuriku Arch Pass 7-day Itinerary for December 2023! Hope you enjoyed it and it gives you confidence in booking your trip and exploring this charming area of Japan.

As always, leave me a comment. I’d love to hear from you.

Looking for Tokyo Day Trips? Check out Enoshima and Mount Fuji Day Trips.